Care & Maintenance
Care & Maintenance
At Maitland's we work very hard to give our customers the best advice we can. We know that if you follow our care instructions your beautiful furniture will last longer and perform better during it's lifespan. Please scroll down to the appropriate "How to care for your furniture" instructions:
The Frame
All great pieces of upholstery come on an amazing frame with the base. A sturdy frame means a longer lasting sofa. The best frames to buy are hardwood frame, they are expensive but they are very durable and long lasting. Plywood is next best; it's affordable, strong and durable. Don't even go there if it is a soft wood, metal or plastic frame, they are cheap, warp easily and not strong at all. How the frame is made is also important, the best is connected joints, where wooden dowel, corner dock, metal screws and metal brackets are used. Avoid any frames that just use glue, staples and nails, these too are weak.
The Springs
Good springs make your sofa comfy and last longer. The most expensive but by far the best is hand-tied springs. They are comfortable and long lasting. Serpentine springs are the most common and most affordable for value. They are supportive but will sag overtime. If it has no springs and just has a web mesh it will be uncomfortable and flimsy. Check for squeaks and creaks as they are a sign of incorrectly placed springs. See what metals they use also, the heavier the better.
Fillings
Filling makes a big difference in your sofa, choose wisely. There are two expensive but good quality options. High resilient foam is comfortable and long lasting, goose/duck feathers are sumptuous and high maintenance. For value without breaking the bank, Polyurethane foam is easy to care for and there is a lot of choice in firmness. A down-poly blend is another cheaper option with a luxurious feel but it will flatten quicker. Polyester fibre is cheap and flattens quickly.
On delivery
Before your furniture is delivered make sure you clear enough space for our friendly delivery team to manoeuvre your furniture safely into the room. If you have ordered a reclining sofa or chair make sure there is enough room for the motion of reclining. Once the furniture has been delivered and all packaging been removed, take a few minutes to inspect it and make sure you are completely happy with it before the delivery team leaves. If you have wooden floors make sure you use protective felt on the feet of the furniture to prevent scratching. Leather furniture may appear flat and creased when removed from packaging. Smooth over with the palms of your hands and once air circulates the sofa will fall into it's correct shape.
All great pieces of upholstery come on an amazing frame with the base. A sturdy frame means a longer lasting sofa. The best frames to buy are hardwood frame, they are expensive but they are very durable and long lasting. Plywood is next best; it's affordable, strong and durable. Don't even go there if it is a soft wood, metal or plastic frame, they are cheap, warp easily and not strong at all. How the frame is made is also important, the best is connected joints, where wooden dowel, corner dock, metal screws and metal brackets are used. Avoid any frames that just use glue, staples and nails, these too are weak.
The Springs
Good springs make your sofa comfy and last longer. The most expensive but by far the best is hand-tied springs. They are comfortable and long lasting. Serpentine springs are the most common and most affordable for value. They are supportive but will sag overtime. If it has no springs and just has a web mesh it will be uncomfortable and flimsy. Check for squeaks and creaks as they are a sign of incorrectly placed springs. See what metals they use also, the heavier the better.
Fillings
Filling makes a big difference in your sofa, choose wisely. There are two expensive but good quality options. High resilient foam is comfortable and long lasting, goose/duck feathers are sumptuous and high maintenance. For value without breaking the bank, Polyurethane foam is easy to care for and there is a lot of choice in firmness. A down-poly blend is another cheaper option with a luxurious feel but it will flatten quicker. Polyester fibre is cheap and flattens quickly.
On delivery
Before your furniture is delivered make sure you clear enough space for our friendly delivery team to manoeuvre your furniture safely into the room. If you have ordered a reclining sofa or chair make sure there is enough room for the motion of reclining. Once the furniture has been delivered and all packaging been removed, take a few minutes to inspect it and make sure you are completely happy with it before the delivery team leaves. If you have wooden floors make sure you use protective felt on the feet of the furniture to prevent scratching. Leather furniture may appear flat and creased when removed from packaging. Smooth over with the palms of your hands and once air circulates the sofa will fall into it's correct shape.
Grain leathers
Grain leathers may be finished or unfinished leathers.
Is my grain leather unfinished?
If you put a drop of water on a hidden area and the water is absorbed rapidly, with a darkening of the leather, then it is unfinished.
Is my grain leather finished?
If you put a drop of water on a hidden area and the water remains on the surface it is a finished leather or water-repellent treated.
How do I care for my finished grain leather?
If you have finished grain leather lightly wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then gently wipe with a dry cloth. If the soiling is stubborn, a dilute solution of alkaline soap (i.e. Lux Flakes or Dove soap) can be used. Simply add about 1% soap solution. After wiping with a damp cloth, polish with a soft dry cloth. This is applicable to all finished leathers where the finish is being cleaned and not the substrate (actual leather surface). We recommend that you purchase a leather cleaning and conditioning kit along with your new leather furniture. The kit contains all that you need to clean, maintain and condition the leather keeping it looking great for years to come.
ALWAYS ensure you keep 2 NEW cloths separate in a plastic bag (free from contamination with bleach & other household cleaners).
How do I clean bonded-leather & faux-leather?
Lightly wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then gently wipe with a dry cloth. If the soiling is stubborn, a dilute solution of alkaline soap (i.e. Lux Flakes or Dove soap) can be used. Simply add about 1% soap solution. After wiping with a damp cloth, polish with a soft dry cloth.
ALWAYS ensure you keep 2 NEW clothes separate in a plastic bag (free from contamination with bleach & other household cleaners).
How do I care for my waxed leather?
Don't use any cleaning products on waxed leathers.
Make it last
Grain leathers may be finished or unfinished leathers.
Is my grain leather unfinished?
If you put a drop of water on a hidden area and the water is absorbed rapidly, with a darkening of the leather, then it is unfinished.
Is my grain leather finished?
If you put a drop of water on a hidden area and the water remains on the surface it is a finished leather or water-repellent treated.
How do I care for my finished grain leather?
If you have finished grain leather lightly wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then gently wipe with a dry cloth. If the soiling is stubborn, a dilute solution of alkaline soap (i.e. Lux Flakes or Dove soap) can be used. Simply add about 1% soap solution. After wiping with a damp cloth, polish with a soft dry cloth. This is applicable to all finished leathers where the finish is being cleaned and not the substrate (actual leather surface). We recommend that you purchase a leather cleaning and conditioning kit along with your new leather furniture. The kit contains all that you need to clean, maintain and condition the leather keeping it looking great for years to come.
ALWAYS ensure you keep 2 NEW cloths separate in a plastic bag (free from contamination with bleach & other household cleaners).
How do I clean bonded-leather & faux-leather?
Lightly wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then gently wipe with a dry cloth. If the soiling is stubborn, a dilute solution of alkaline soap (i.e. Lux Flakes or Dove soap) can be used. Simply add about 1% soap solution. After wiping with a damp cloth, polish with a soft dry cloth.
ALWAYS ensure you keep 2 NEW clothes separate in a plastic bag (free from contamination with bleach & other household cleaners).
How do I care for my waxed leather?
Don't use any cleaning products on waxed leathers.
Make it last
- Never place furniture in front of direct heat or near air conditioning.
- Light affects the colour of most products, to avoid furniture fading place away from direct sunlight.
- Open and close any recliner mechanisms slowly and with care, never force them as this could damage the mechanism
- Do not leave newspapers lying on the suite as the ink may transfer
- Be careful when wearing dark coloured denim jeans or non-colourfast fabrics as the colour can easily transfer to lighter coloured upholstery
Daily care
- Vacuuming on a weekly basis helps to eliminate dirt before it becomes embedded in the fibres. A light brushing is also helpful to remove dirt, but always use a soft bristled brush to avoid snagging the fabric.
- Always ensure spots & stains are cleaned as quickly as possible with a clean folded towel; never rub, but blot gently. Try and clean all upholstery at the same time to prevent irregular fading.
- It is recommended that your upholstered furniture is cleaned professionally every few years to keep the upholstery looking fresh and new.
- It is recommended you turn cushions on a daily or weekly basis (when possible) to allow even distribution of wear and tear and avoid developing indentations straight away. Over time some fillings (including fibre) will lose up to 20% of their volume; daily plumping will help them last longer and keep them in shape.
- It is advisable to change the cushions around where possible, as some seats get more usage than others and this will ensure a more even usage.
- All furniture should be lifted and moved rather than dragged to prevent any damage to the product or the area in which you are using them.
- Avoid sitting on the edge of seat cushions as this could distort their shape or damage them. Standing or jumping on furniture can cause damage to the frame work and fabric/fillings. This will shorten the life span of your furniture.
- Avoid positioning your upholstered furniture too close to direct heat or conditioning as this can cause damage to the fabric and the framework.
- Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can damage your upholstery and cause the fabrics to fade and potentially fray. Try to position your upholstered furniture away from direct sun light.
- Never place furniture in front of direct heat or near air conditioning.
- Light affects the colour of most products, to avoid furniture fading place away from direct sunlight.
- Open and close any recliner mechanisms slowly and with care, never force them as this could damage the mechanism
- Do not leave newspapers lying on the suite as the ink may transfer
- Be careful when wearing dark coloured denim jeans or non-colourfast fabrics as the colour can easily transfer to lighter coloured upholstery
Doing the following will increase the life of your mattress
Turn your mattress four times a year to distribute the wear evenly, more frequently in the first few weeks. A mattress should be turned side to side (where the mattress is double sided) and also top to toe. The easiest way to do this is working with one person on each long side of the bed, grab onto the handles and turn the mattress perpendicular to the box spring. Then slide the mattress partially off one side, bringing the end that was at the foot of the bed up, and let the other end fall to the floor so the mattress is standing on one end. Then simply let if fall back on to the bed and turn it back into place, with the end that was the foot now at the head.
Vacuuming your mattress and base every three months with the upholstery attachment each time you do the turning helps extend the life of your mattress. As does striping your bed whenever you go on holiday, in order to air it out.
Turn your mattress four times a year to distribute the wear evenly, more frequently in the first few weeks. A mattress should be turned side to side (where the mattress is double sided) and also top to toe. The easiest way to do this is working with one person on each long side of the bed, grab onto the handles and turn the mattress perpendicular to the box spring. Then slide the mattress partially off one side, bringing the end that was at the foot of the bed up, and let the other end fall to the floor so the mattress is standing on one end. Then simply let if fall back on to the bed and turn it back into place, with the end that was the foot now at the head.
Vacuuming your mattress and base every three months with the upholstery attachment each time you do the turning helps extend the life of your mattress. As does striping your bed whenever you go on holiday, in order to air it out.
Following this list of do not's will help protect your mattress:
- Don't sit on the edge of a mattress.
- Don't allow your mattress to get wet.
- Don't use dry-cleaning fluid of any type to clean your mattress.
- Don't place a board between your mattress and your box spring.
- Don't let children jump on the bed, its not a trampoline.
Lacquered furniture
- Don't avoid dusting furniture. Frequent dusting removes airborne deposits that build up in a filmy layer and can scratch the surface.
- Clean, dry, soft cloths or feather dusters will effectively remove dust; however, to avoid scattering the dust into the air, where it floats until landing back on furniture surfaces, dampen the cloth very slightly.
- Never use all-purpose cleaning sprays unless your furniture has a plastic coating, such as the kind used on kitchen tables and children's furniture.
- You'll usually want to avoid cleaning wood with water. However, sticky spots may need to be treated with soap and water. In this case dip the cloth in mild soap or detergent dissolved in water, wring the cloth nearly dry, and wipe the area. Rinse and immediately dry with a clean, soft cloth.
- Oil polishes, cleaners, and furniture oils protect wood by making the surface more slippery; they do not offer a hard protective layer.
- Products that contain a high percentage of oil make the surface smear, showing fingerprints. Avoid polishing with pure olive oil, which smears and attracts dust.
- Typically during manufacture, varnish, polyurethane, or shellac is applied to wood to protect the surface.
- Applying wax or polish protects the manufacturer's finish and helps to reduce surface scratches.
- Wax provides a hard finish and long-lasting protection, doesn't smear, and is more durable than sprays or polishes.
- If necessary, use paste wax or liquid wax made specifically for furniture. Depending on use, paste wax finishes may last as long as two years. Liquid wax is easier to apply but leaves a thinner coating; it may need to be applied more frequently than paste wax.
- Learn how to properly apply waxes to eliminate streaks or a cloudy appearance. Always apply wax in light coats, rubbing into the surface with the grain. Allow to dry and buff to a clear shine with a soft cloth.
Wool carpets
- A great benefit of a wool carpet is that it's naturally resistant to dirt.
- Wool fibres make it harder for dirt particles to stick, so they're easier to clean and keep their colour longer.
- Deal with it quickly so it's less likely to stain.
- Don't rub, or you'll damage the yarn.
- Don't use salt or white wine on a red wine spill.
- Work from the outside inwards to limit the affected area.
- Use a cleaner designed for wool, working it in with a brush, sponge or cloth, then rinsing.
- When you've finished, blot thoroughly and brush the pile in the right direction.
- If you're in any doubt, call a professional carpet cleaner.
- Ideally vacuum your carpet every day.
- If your vacuum has a beater bar or brush head, that's even better.
- (Please note that loop pile carpet should be vacuumed with a suction head only, beater bars may catch the fibres.)
- Take it slowly so the vacuum has enough time to clean from deep in the tufts.
- Concentrate on well-trodden areas like stairs, hallways and in front of chairs.
- If your carpet runs right up to an external door, use a mat to catch dirt and grit on its way in.
- Always take off outdoor shoes, especially with grip soles, like trainers, as they can tear the pile. Additionally the dirt tracked in from outside can stain and dirty the carpet.
- LVT & Laminate flooring should be installed according to the manufacturers instructions. Using appropriate materials for preparation of the floor beforehand.
- Always follow the manufacturers instructions for cleaning of your new LVT or Laminate floor. We stock and supply approved cleaning products for both Amtico and Karndean flooring.
- A vacuum cleaner can be used to suction up loose dirt, dust & debris prior to mopping however if the vacuum cleaner has a beater bar or brush roll this should be switched off to prevent scratches or scuffs from developing.
- Tacked shoes (such as golf shoes or boots) or Stiletto heels should not be worn when walking on LVT or laminate floors as they may scratch or damage the surface.
- Check the soles of your shoes before entering to make sure stones or gravel are not wedged in the treads that could scratch the floor.